When spring comes it’s time to roll up your sleeves and  get busy and I can’t wait!

Here are some tips that I follow for getting my roses off to a good start in my Zone 5b garden.

PLANTING

For March/April planting, I buy bare root roses from online vendors (my preferred list here). When they arrive they are “bare roots” wrapped in wet newspaper. Very humble beginnings for a plant that will be so lovely later!

I immediately unpack them and soak them in a bucket of water for 24 hours before planting. Don’t worry about planting them in March or April. Get them in the ground and they will wake up with your other roses as the weather dictates.

Planting decisions are dependent on the type of rose…

Grafted Roses: Many hybrid teas, floribunda and grandifloras are grafted roses.

This means that a rose is created by being grafted onto strong, hardy root stock, creating a “bud union.” Plant the bud union (knobby part just above the roots) 2” below the soil line to protect it from harsh winters we often have.

Own Root Roses: These roses were started from cuttings and are on their own root, so there is no bud union to protect. I plant them as I would any other shrub.

SOIL

We ask roses to bloom for us all summer, year after year, so it is best to give them a good start by planting them in good, rich soil. Our neck of the woods has horrible gray clay soil so we dig BIG holes–holes much deeper and wider than the root system to allow for soil amendments and deep enough to protect the bud union. (At least 18″ by 18″.) To the soil removed, we add a quality grade of top soil if we are planted where we have not previously worked out terrible clay soil.

Finally we top them off with compost and mulch. Your roses will appreciate your gifts of more nutrients and better drainage and will reward you handsomely! You will never regret giving your roses a good foundation.

Roses Already in Leaf and Bloom…

If you purchased something from a garden center that is already leafed out and perhaps has buds or blooms, wait until the frost date has passed to plant them in the garden. In my zone that date is May 10. I have two beautiful roses waiting patiently in the Potting Shed as I type. I will confess to occassionally planting a little earlier than May 10, but you have to be prepared to cover them if frosty nights come!!

PRUNING

DON’T BE AFRAID TO PRUNE. I’ve made countless “mistakes” through the years and the roses always forgive and come back!

WHEN TO PRUNE: Here in the midwest, it is  difficult to know when winter is really over and it is time to prune. For many years, I have let the forsythia tell me. When the forsythia is blooming, I start pruning. This year a huge cold snap came after the forsythia bloomed, blowing that theory.

Different types of roses have different pruning needs, I published an article on pruning tips … you can read that article here.

MULCH

Mulching is very important to roses. Keep moisture in. Barrier from weeds. And can be a great help is controlling disease. Those BS spores lie there and to get a splash of water and up onto the plant they go! Also it adds extra “beauty.” I love to see a freshly mulched garden! Do keep the mulch from hugging to the base of the plant. Just leave a little room.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

You will need protective gloves and a sharp pair of pruners. My choice for pruners are Felcos. My hands are small so I buy # 14. Most people use #2. Mr. G does all the things to keep them clean and sharp! Felcos online.

Labels for your roses. Harlane Garden Labels.

FERTILIZE

Once our roses are starting to grow, it’s time for fertilizer. Most any fertilizer will do—but do read labels carefully–too much of a good thing can be harmful! I  I’m more intentional in the spring on what I do but many times it is as simple as what is on sale for summer fertilization. 

Old Garden Roses and Rugosas are fertilized in the spring. Most other roses are only fertilized twice a season–spring and summer — Before and after first flush. But if I have the time they will get a third fertilization giving them a boost for the fall flush which can be spectacular. This is a good time to know you first frost date so you fertilize early enough that they have time to bloom and start getting ready for the frosty nights to come. 

TIP: Never fertilize dry roses. Best to water before and after you fertilize.

TIP: What to fertilizer to use: I have to confess I change up my types of fertilizer. The last few years it is mostly been Rose Tone and Scott’s Bloom and Rose with additional tonics of Alaska Fish Emulsion. In 2024 I started using Heirloom’s Founder’s Fish Emulsion. So far – so good!

WATER

Once the fertilizer has been applied, you will want to give your roses a deep watering to get those nutrients down to where they can do some good. 

TIP: When you water water deeply. Send those roots down down down where they will be safer for the hot dry days to come. 

A good rule of thumb is to water in the morning instead of evening. We want to put the roses to bed as dry as possible so evening watering is tricky. Wet leaves are more susceptible to fungal diseases (e.g. Black Spot & Powdery Mildew). If I am watering in the morning I give them a good all-over shower. This is great way to remove dirt and any insects that have shown up for the tasty and tender buds! I think roses appreciate a refreshing shower just as we do, just don’t put them to bed wet.

MULCHING

This is one of my favorite parts. Mulch is so good for your roses … retains moisture, helps to keep down weeds and gives the garden that fresh, finished look!

MY FAVORITE TIP…

My favorite tip is to visit your roses daily or as often as you can to enjoy their beauty and to get to know them. Getting to know them can be key in early detection of any pest or disease.

And, when you have beautiful roses outside, who can stay in!